Today, Pigato is a symbol of typicality for western Liguria. This is indeed the most renowned expression of local wine production, produced in an amount that is sufficient to create a market. However, obtaining the Pigato was not easy. There are fundamental dates in the history of Pigato. Francesco Gagliolo, the archpriest of Ortovero, near the plain of Albenga, had promoted its cultivation as early as in 1830-31. Interest for this product was officially born and then confirmed by more accurate investigations that took place in 1873 and with the subsequent replanting of vines following the renewal of the wine culture heritage to eradicate the contagion from phylloxera.
The municipal territory of Ortovero is still a privileged area of production. In any case, there are spaces suitable for this vine in other well-exposed areas of western Liguria, always obtained with some difficulty from the steep hills through the terraces supported by stone walls. The name “Pigato” probably comes from the typical stain visible on the grape (“pigau”, stain is “piga” in local dialect). In any case, historically, even the Pigato is part of those wines referred to as “Riviera nostrale bianco” in the nineteenth-century lists, sold at a higher price, because of higher quality. The Pigato belongs to the “Riviera Ligure di Ponente” DOC. It is a dry white wine. Its straw yellow colour can also be very pale, but the fragrant and fruity aroma immediately wins over. The typical hints, in the mouth, are rich, enchanting: yellow fruit (peach), honey, wild flowers, soft sages, sometimes natural resins. The body is good, the persistence in the mouth offers lasting satisfaction with a slightly bitter final taste that leaves a “good” and clean sensation in the mouth. And they are ideal with many types of dishes, especially Mediterranean in which aromatic herbs are used. And with fish and combined dishes of international cuisine, even as a counterpoint to not too aggressive spices.
[Alessandro Giacobbe]
